oil options for homebrew fina?

[lovevixen]

ethyl oleate does that take the place of the BA and BB or does one still use the BA and BB with it? I am out of BB but have some BA still would adding the ethyl oleate make for a better solvent mix in terms of how much product will dissolve in it? I am always looking for a better way to go.

[NavyIron04]

For my 200mg/ml fina mix I used 3% BA, 20% BB, and the rest EO. It was starting to be a bit of a bitch in my body and hurt leg days so I thinned it down to 100mg/ml with USP grapeseed oil.
No pain whatsoever from the fina.

[LifeSize]

Originally Posted by lastchance

50% ethyl oleate 50% CSO..........Makes for nice and smooth. GSO, your fina will be a green color, if color matters.

LC

Doesn't matter but..

Originally Posted by lovevixen

ethyl oleate does that take the place of the BA and BB or does one still use the BA and BB with it? I am out of BB but have some BA still would adding the ethyl oleate make for a better solvent mix in terms of how much product will dissolve in it? I am always looking for a better way to go.

What he asked.

[NavyIron04]

The BB is still pretty essential just to help dissolve the crystals/pellets/whatever you use for your conversion.

[lovevixen]

Well back in the good old days people use just BA and it worked fine but some complained about pain. Most UGL's do not us BB just BA in high concentrations as it makes up for their lack of hygien keeps it sterile and kills most common parasites that we would be concerned with. The BB came into the picture to keep the hormones in solution in your body longer to reduce the pain. When the body would quickly absorb the BA the remaining hormone still attached to it's ester would drop out in the absecence of any BA and form in it's natural crystal state. The BB was not their to improve the ability to hold product in solutionint he bottle it was put in to keep the hormone from falling out inside your muscles one the BA was quickly absorbed. The first Tren kits where nothing but BA no BB that came latter on!

So if I used 2ml or BA per cart and mixed my oil 50/50 with EO would I get a quality product with out the need to use BB. I am guessing the 50/50 CSO/EO is what was commonly sold as "magic universal dissolveing oil" for those starting out with pure powder forms or hormone instead of starting with implant pellets. So you would I gues basicly heat the oil up to make it USP let it cool a little mix 50/50 with EO put most in the bottle without need to filter then toss say 20 cc on your poder mix it up and then dray into a syringe and filter into the clean bottle withthe rest of the EO/oil mixure. Push 2-5 cc of oil through the wattmana nd call it day with you need to BA and BB???? I am guessing here not state it as a fact I am trying to make sure I understand where it came from and how to use it in my own way as needed????

So if I wanted to do 4 carts and did not have any BB could I simply go a bit over board use 10cc of BA and 40cc dose of premixed oil and EO at 50/50 and have a product that would be smooth and not crash?

[Big_paul]

if your going to use it soon, grape seed is easier to inject. i've heard it doesn't store as well as other oils though.

[LifeSize]

Originally Posted by lovevixen

Well back in the good old days people use just BA and it worked fine but some complained about pain. Most UGL's do not us BB just BA in high concentrations as it makes up for their lack of hygien keeps it sterile and kills most common parasites that we would be concerned with. The BB came into the picture to keep the hormones in solution in your body longer to reduce the pain. When the body would quickly absorb the BA the remaining hormone still attached to it's ester would drop out in the absecence of any BA and form in it's natural crystal state. The BB was not their to improve the ability to hold product in solutionint he bottle it was put in to keep the hormone from falling out inside your muscles one the BA was quickly absorbed. The first Tren kits where nothing but BA no BB that came latter on!

So if I used 2ml or BA per cart and mixed my oil 50/50 with EO would I get a quality product with out the need to use BB. I am guessing the 50/50 CSO/EO is what was commonly sold as "magic universal dissolveing oil" for those starting out with pure powder forms or hormone instead of starting with implant pellets. So you would I gues basicly heat the oil up to make it USP let it cool a little mix 50/50 with EO put most in the bottle without need to filter then toss say 20 cc on your poder mix it up and then dray into a syringe and filter into the clean bottle withthe rest of the EO/oil mixure. Push 2-5 cc of oil through the wattmana nd call it day with you need to BA and BB???? I am guessing here not state it as a fact I am trying to make sure I understand where it came from and how to use it in my own way as needed????

So if I wanted to do 4 carts and did not have any BB could I simply go a bit over board use 10cc of BA and 40cc dose of premixed oil and EO at 50/50 and have a product that would be smooth and not crash?

what color is the final product?

[lovevixen]

I have not used EO yet I was asking to make sure I understood things properly before I make a mistake. As I understand it EO will make the solution green!

Traditionally with BA/BB and oil of your choice tren is usually a light yellow color if no heat is used. If you use any heat like to speed up the dissolving of the pellets or if you cook your tren at the end then it turns a golden color almost a dark yellow with a hint of orange more like a light bronze color then gold.

I need to look for some grape seed oil since everyone says it is a lot smoother...I used Safflower oil last time because it was cheap and locally available at the store. I hate to spend a premium for 50cc of oil when I can get a quart bottle at oil at Walmart for the same price etc.....

I do like the idea of added anti-oxidants and such!!! You can never get too many anti-oxidants!!!

Ultimately I would like to find an oil that is as thin as water.... Using an 18 gage needle to draw from the bottle really tears up the rubber stoppers.

As far as the color goes though I do not care it is going into my muscles and I am sure they will not care either!

Oh and on the cooking thing. I have done it a couple of different ways and even when I have cooked it in the oven at 275 for half and hour cooled in freezer then reheated and the product turned dark golden brown it still worked just fine. Like wise I have also done it in a pan of boiling water and also had good results going as long as 30 minutes. I did one large batch twice because half way throw the cycle it got super cloudy. I think my filter broke and let too much junk in...So I cooked it a second time and refiltered through another watman and again it worked just fine......

Personely anymore I chose not to heat my product as my technique has gotten better and better I do not find I need to. Since I have not made two batches up cooked one and left the other and sent out for testing I have no idea what the final effect is. Since the package insert says to keep away from heat and light I have to figure it is better if you can go with out the heating. I find that if I just use more BA and let my three step filtering process do it's job ie coffee filter, whatman .45 then whattman .2 I get a nice clean product that never clouds and is as potent as I could want and sterile as it should be. If ever I was going to use heat I would heat the oil in a coffee cup or Pyrex measuring cup in the oven before I used it so I could easily get away with just filtering the bulk of it through the Whattman.45 into the bottle and then only have to filter the solution that has the active AAS in it through the .2 filter. Luckily BA does not seem to bother me like it does some. I never feel more pain then a small mosquito bite unless I hit a vein. So I tend to run higher amounts of BA then most since it almost guarantee's that you will have a sterile product even if you goof and rupture a filter the first time you do it. I am sure we have all done that at least one ruptured a Whattman by pushing too hard and still used our cloudy finished product! I can not say enough about triple filter's using the coffee filter then useing the larger Whattman then the smaller whattman....I have not had a cloudy batch or anything in the way of trouble since I went to it. Filtering is fast and easy and I get a product that is sterile. Technically the .2 filtering process makes anything that come out the needles end sterilized. .45 does not. In the old days all kits came with Whattman.2 filters but they often cloged up fast so then they added the coffee filter as a pree filtering step. Often you would just go for the clear stuff staying away from what was at the bottom as you would have three layers a nice clear layer, a cloudy layer then the junk filler on the bottom. People did not like the idea of wasting all the stuff after the first clear layer. The second layer would clog the .2 whattman almost instantly and then if you pushed too hard rupture!!!!

Once places started to sell the raw parts of the kit they started to add the .45 filter to their sites. A lot of people went to them because filtering was easier and faster and they skipped the .2 filter. The problem though is that their are virus most especialy and some bacteria that can get past the .45 filter but .2 is considered sterile by the U.S.' Governments FDA governing body for vaccines and other injectable compounds. So to me it only makes sense to do .2 then you do not have to worry about cooking and such. The fact that I could push 60cc's through a .45 and .2 filter in is insanely fast. Back when I did it the old way with no coffee filter and no .45 filter often it took 2-3 hours of fighting with the .2 Whatman to get just the 20cc of solution through the whattman. I used to use USP oil so I did not have to worry about the bulk of the oil it went in to the bottle directly with out filtering. So if you take your time and tripple filter other then the over night wait for the coffee filter part it is so fast efficient and results in such a clean product I can not see any reason to skip any steps.

When you buy gear from UGL's youhave no idea how it was made.........I am picturing some guy sneezeing into the vat of product as he is pouring powder into the oil and solvent base!!!LOL Our some warehouse that does not even have a bath room or a sink to wash your hands etc........

[LifeSize]

Originally Posted by lovevixen

I have not used EO yet I was asking to make sure I understood things properly before I make a mistake. As I understand it EO will make the solution green!

Traditionally with BA/BB and oil of your choice tren is usually a light yellow color if no heat is used. If you use any heat like to speed up the dissolving of the pellets or if you cook your tren at the end then it turns a golden color almost a dark yellow with a hint of orange more like a light bronze color then gold.

I need to look for some grape seed oil since everyone says it is a lot smoother...I used Safflower oil last time because it was cheap and locally available at the store. I hate to spend a premium for 50cc of oil when I can get a quart bottle at oil at Walmart for the same price etc.....

I do like the idea of added anti-oxidants and such!!! You can never get too many anti-oxidants!!!

Ultimately I would like to find an oil that is as thin as water.... Using an 18 gage needle to draw from the bottle really tears up the rubber stoppers.

As far as the color goes though I do not care it is going into my muscles and I am sure they will not care either!

Oh and on the cooking thing. I have done it a couple of different ways and even when I have cooked it in the oven at 275 for half and hour cooled in freezer then reheated and the product turned dark golden brown it still worked just fine. Like wise I have also done it in a pan of boiling water and also had good results going as long as 30 minutes. I did one large batch twice because half way throw the cycle it got super cloudy. I think my filter broke and let too much junk in...So I cooked it a second time and refiltered through another watman and again it worked just fine......

Personely anymore I chose not to heat my product as my technique has gotten better and better I do not find I need to. Since I have not made two batches up cooked one and left the other and sent out for testing I have no idea what the final effect is. Since the package insert says to keep away from heat and light I have to figure it is better if you can go with out the heating. I find that if I just use more BA and let my three step filtering process do it's job ie coffee filter, whatman .45 then whattman .2 I get a nice clean product that never clouds and is as potent as I could want and sterile as it should be. If ever I was going to use heat I would heat the oil in a coffee cup or Pyrex measuring cup in the oven before I used it so I could easily get away with just filtering the bulk of it through the Whattman.45 into the bottle and then only have to filter the solution that has the active AAS in it through the .2 filter. Luckily BA does not seem to bother me like it does some. I never feel more pain then a small mosquito bite unless I hit a vein. So I tend to run higher amounts of BA then most since it almost guarantee's that you will have a sterile product even if you goof and rupture a filter the first time you do it. I am sure we have all done that at least one ruptured a Whattman by pushing too hard and still used our cloudy finished product! I can not say enough about triple filter's using the coffee filter then useing the larger Whattman then the smaller whattman....I have not had a cloudy batch or anything in the way of trouble since I went to it. Filtering is fast and easy and I get a product that is sterile. Technically the .2 filtering process makes anything that come out the needles end sterilized. .45 does not. In the old days all kits came with Whattman.2 filters but they often cloged up fast so then they added the coffee filter as a pree filtering step. Often you would just go for the clear stuff staying away from what was at the bottom as you would have three layers a nice clear layer, a cloudy layer then the junk filler on the bottom. People did not like the idea of wasting all the stuff after the first clear layer. The second layer would clog the .2 whattman almost instantly and then if you pushed too hard rupture!!!!

Once places started to sell the raw parts of the kit they started to add the .45 filter to their sites. A lot of people went to them because filtering was easier and faster and they skipped the .2 filter. The problem though is that their are virus most especialy and some bacteria that can get past the .45 filter but .2 is considered sterile by the U.S.' Governments FDA governing body for vaccines and other injectable compounds. So to me it only makes sense to do .2 then you do not have to worry about cooking and such. The fact that I could push 60cc's through a .45 and .2 filter in is insanely fast. Back when I did it the old way with no coffee filter and no .45 filter often it took 2-3 hours of fighting with the .2 Whatman to get just the 20cc of solution through the whattman. I used to use USP oil so I did not have to worry about the bulk of the oil it went in to the bottle directly with out filtering. So if you take your time and tripple filter other then the over night wait for the coffee filter part it is so fast efficient and results in such a clean product I can not see any reason to skip any steps.

When you buy gear from UGL's youhave no idea how it was made.........I am picturing some guy sneezeing into the vat of product as he is pouring powder into the oil and solvent base!!!LOL Our some warehouse that does not even have a bath room or a sink to wash your hands etc........

cotton/grape both go through a 25g insulin pin.